It is also an essential requirement for work: it powers equipment such as safety lights and radios when a vehicle is stationary. So a dual battery system is a must. There are a few ways the second battery can be wired into the vehicle, depending on its intended use and the system flexibility required. To carry 15kg or more of battery in tough off-road conditions, the tray must be heavy-duty to prevent vibrations — especially vibrations that come via corrugations — from destroying it.
Most will use factory-provided installation points and several stays to provide plenty of stability and support. Some 4x4 vehicles have pre-installed but unused locations ideal for second battery installation. For instance, most diesel Toyota Prados have two batteries, while petrol Prados have one plus a strong factory-engineered foundation for a second battery.
This means you need to pay extra attention to the wiring and battery type chosen. The fitment of an accessory battery tray can often be achieved by a competent handyman, although vehicle components — such as a power steering reservoir or an air-conditioner pipe — may require tweaking or relocation to provide space for a second battery tray.
No matter what, batteries hate heat, so batteries should be installed as far away as possible from hot engine components; preferably on the cold side of the engine, opposite the exhaust. No vehicle will endure a 15kg battery hanging from an inner mudguard with two small bolts or screws. Fasteners must be adequately sized and have large washers to spread the load across the panel work such as an inner guard. You should also regularly inspect the area for cracks or loosening.
Damage of this type, usually resulting from cheap, poor quality products have wrecked many outback treks. The genuine accessory dual battery system for the Mazda BT mounts the auxilliary battery in the tray and uses a Redarc solenoid in the engine bay for charging managment. Vehicles with factory-fit twin batteries — such as many diesel Land Cruisers, Prados and later D22 Nissans — can be easily re-configured to have a starter and accessory battery, too, rather than twin starters.
But the original wiring of these vehicles can usually be easily reconfigured to accommodate a proper dual-battery system. In circuits with parallel connection of two engine charging circuits, it is likely that the voltage produced by them will not be precisely equal. If one unit has an output approximately one volt greater than the other, the effect of this will be to electrically disconnect the load from the lower voltage output engine.
This may result in damage to the stator coil of the engine producing the lower voltage output. Several models of Boston Whaler boats come rigged from the factory with dual outboards and dual engines. Below is the wiring which is believed to be currently used by Boston Whaler in these installations. If the suggested procedure is followed, the charging circuits of the two engines will not be connected together in normal operation. One engine can charge two batteries, but two engines should not charge a common battery.
Prolonged running of both engines operating on same battery is to be avoided; prolonged running of both engines with both batteries paralleled is to be avoided. An alternative approach that is not as flexible but is simpler to install and operate is shown below.
In some cases, the TIE Switch can be omitted and replaced by a temporary connection between batteries using a jumper cable.
It is probably a good idea to carry jumper cables in any case. Connecting the two battery negative terminals is also probably a good idea, even it the TIE switch is not used. A new approach that I just implemented this spring on my Whaler is shown below. Again, this arrangement is not as flexible as the "factory" wiring, but it is the most simple and easiest to install. The switch serves a dual function.
In the OFF position it disconnects the house load from the batteries. In the 1 or 2 position, the house load is powered from a single battery as selected. In the BOTH position, the house load is powered from both batteries, and the two batteries are connected in parallel.
The BOTH position should only be used for special cases, such as attempting to start an engine and needing additional battery power. To prevent the paralleling of the engine charging circuits, when operating in the BOTH position it is advisable to only run one engine at a time.
The only time the BOTH position may be needed is in starting an engine whose normal battery is too weak to crank it over. In that case, the selector can be moved to the BOTH position, temporarily paralleling the batteries and allowing the engine whose battery is weak to be started. Once the engine is running, the switch can be moved out of the BOTH position, and the second engine started from its battery which should have enough charge remaining to crank it.
The more complex Whaler factory design allows for more flexibility, but at the same time allows for the possibility that a wrong setting of the switches could be made.
The result could be damage to the engine charging circuitry. This arrangement is probably most appropriate on larger, more complex vessels. The principal advantage of the "alternate" wiring shown is its simplicity. If the TIE switch is not thrown, there is no chance to connect two engine charging circuits together. Sometimes in situations of high stress, like a hard starting engine in a rough sea, simplicity has very desirable advantages.
Notice that the alternate arrangement connects the circuit breaker panel to only the Starboard battery. This prevents the Port battery from being discharged by other loads like lamps left on or a stuck bilge pump switch , thus preserving it for starting duty only.
This can be an important advantage. The principal advantage of the "new" wiring is its extreme simplicity. Only one switch is used and it serves a dual purpose. The batteries and charging systems are kept isolated except when the BOTH position is selected for special or emergency starting conditions. The disadvantage of this arrangement is there is no electrical disconnect of the batteries from the engines.
However, there are millions of outboard powered boats that operate without such a disconnect, save for the case of opening the battery box and removing the leads from the terminals. The only need for such a disconnect would be in the unusual case of the engine electrical circuit malfunctioning, as could occur with trim relay, starter motor contactor, or other electrical load remaining stuck in an "ON" condition.
The lower the resistance the lower the voltage drop, and the lower the current the lower the voltage drop. The outboard motor typically comes with cables with a conductor size that is appropriate for the current the motor will draw during starting and the length of those cables. When you want to stretch the cables to reach the console, you have two choices: --you can make the extension cable so large that its resistance is very low, and in this way the total resistance in the starting circuit will be sufficiently low, or, --you can replace the cables with new cables of a larger size that will be appropriate for the new length.
If you splice in an extension, you typically have to use really large cable to get the total resistance low enough, and you also have the problem of the splice, its connection, where to make it, how to protect it against weather, and so on.
If you use all new cables you get a one-piece cable run, and the new cable won't have to be so large.
I've removed almost all wood for refinishing. I removed all canvas for storage and some minor repairs. I removed previous owners reg numbers and stickers. Removed transducers for depth finder and fish finder. I will be replacing all fuel lines, control cables, battery cables and more. I think this will be the perfect time to lift deck, inspect, clean, etc. Tomorrow I will try to sand gunnels, and teak piece on top of console, and apply first coat of teak oil.
It's supposed to be warm -- we'll see. I don't see a need for three batteries. To charge the batteries while in the boat, install a fixed-mount AC powered battery charger. I like the ProMarine chargers.
Bass Pro Shop usually has these in stock at a good price. If you don't need extremely rapid charging, a 4-ampere charge rate should be sufficient to maintain or top off the batteries.
I would normally keep the systems seperate to not cause any problems with the two voltage regulators. Two batteries are plenty Should I just use the one I have?
My biggest question: is there a difference in the battery set-up for twin motors vs the set-up for single engine? This is why I asked about a third battery. I'm using one on my Outrage 22 with a single and a kicker, and it is flawless, a clean install and automatic.
Turn the batteries on, run the boat, forget about the rest. I run two electric downriggers on my Outrage 22 along with depth sounder, GPS plotter, VHF radio, stereo, running lights, two automatic bilge pumps, and a raw water washdown system. I have never had an issue on the water with this system in place. Do a search here for "bluewaterpirate" - he has some nice pics of his install.
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